The crazy thing about my job as a City Weekend intern is that I’m often given tasks that my title really shouldn’t allow. Like take over a dining advertorial that another freelancer dropped. Thankfully, it was a pretty straightforward jobĀ – set up photo shoots with two chefs and their signature dishes through their PR people, make sure the photos were uniform and attractive, then write the blurbs.
The Langham, a boutique hotel near People’s Square, did a very nice lunch before the photoshoot. Witness:

Appetizer…


Here’s the chef’s signature dish – a pan seared turbot with vanilla (the stuff on top), dark chocolate, and eggplant puree. An interesting flavor pairing that worked.

A white chocolate mousse made with olive oil rather than cream, and with some tomato embedded inside, since tomato and olive oil is the classic Italian pairing.
Then the next day was the Hyatt’s chef, this time, no three course lunch, but some amazing views from their restaurant:


Here’s my favorite photographer, Mao Dou, who is really a big sweetheart and a great food photographer.

The main event: rolled veal carpaccio stuffed with goat cheese, side salad of artichoke, red onion, pea shoots, hazelnut dressing. Very fresh, simple, delicious.

Here’s the chef getting test shots taken. He eventually agreed to wearing a hat, but before giving me a heart attack when he refused at first. He hammed it up nicely for the camera.
Now, I’ve gotten the copy written up, talked to the designer, and I’m extra excited for it to appear in the next issue of City Weekend. Yay! If you’re in Shanghai, be sure to pick up the most recent copy of the magazine with the “expat evolution” cover – there are tons things I wrote in it.
Now, for a cultural aside,

Also, just for good measure, this is the proper way to wear your backpack to ward of sticky-fingered thieves in China.
The problems I have with China are usually these frustrating moments when the bus driver starts driving away as I have one foot on to board – and is blatantly apathetic to my rage. Or when I realize I’ve gotten ripped off since I’m not well versed on what things are supposed to cost here. Or like this morning, when I hailed a motorcycle cab, agreed to a price before I got in, then the driver suddenly jacked the price up 2 yuan. I tried to negotiate down a yuan, but he angrily demanded his full 6 yuan. Finally, we ended up in a screaming match, where I finally relinquished the last, pathetic yuan he demanded.
I was overcome by my linguistic paralysis – I know next to no curse words in Mandarin.
And well, a yuan is all of 15 cents USD.
I guess, despite my unpleasant experiences and daily near-deaths from aggressive traffic (no such thing as pedestrian right of way here), I’m lucky that I can afford to get ripped off a few dozen yuan and never really feel the pain. But that doesn’t make me resent that motorcab driver any less.
The first time I saw this in person, I just thought it was the coolest thing ever. So I took a video.
The inside is flaky and savory, like so:

Jian Bing in all its pornographic glory.

a frightening cross between lobster and jumbo shrimp, 13 yuan, about $2 USD

a mutilated crustacean
You know, it’s funny. I’ve eaten brains and balls and everything in between, but even I was really intimidated by these puppies. I kind of stared at the tray and asked the waiter for help on how to approach them. Do I eat the head? Rip the shell off, eat the tail, and get a little bit of the head, he instructed me. They gave me a bowl of vinegar and plastic gloves to handle these, which were cooked with super-hot whole chilis and left a scum of fiery orange oil all over my gloves.
I preferred the mutton kebabs they also served. Those were just plain delicious – crackling and fatty, sprinkled with cumin and chili lakes.
The waiters were all from Henan province. One waiter’s family was still there.
Why are you in Shanghai? I asked.
Why did your parents go to America? he asked, laughing. To make money.
Fair enough.
What are your hours? I asked him. He said they worked from 6am until 2am, staying open to make more money. He had a dinner of noodles. They were all fascinated that I came from America, and asked me how much my plane ticket was (an unimaginable sum of money). I gave them all the extra change in my backpack as an introduction to the American practice of tipping.
I think my father is convinced I will be robbed blind once I land in Shanghai due to extreme poor planning and naivete. Well, here’s the rundown of my preparation thus far:
- 3 painful immunizations, $108, termbilled to parents
- malaria meds, in case i travel through rural China: $30
- hotel booking (and subsequent rescheduling because I misread my itinerary, typical), $68
- 4am taxi ride, anticipated $45
- stupidly lost ID, charlie card, keys, almost full BerryLine card, valued at $55
- two months rent on sublet, Y3600 (approx. $600)
- gut busting breakfast at Harvard Square diner Leo’s Place, $7.95
- other anticipated expenses, $1500, or until I run out of cash
- GYM MEMBERSHIP???
- amount of money earned doing temp barbacking: a lot more than standing around should merit
- getting free bull testicles from KO Prime predeparture: priceless. The video is coming soon.
I got an email from my waiter at KO Prime which began, “hey! the eagle as landed.” I have only tomorrow night to eat the dish that I suggested (artfully prepared bull testicles), and I’d love, nay, require some adventurous company. Harvard and Bostonian friends, let me know if you’re up for it: lingboli [at] fas.harvard.edu