Thinly sliced beef heart at Ken Oringer’s Toro. My dining partner was a little apprehensive at first, but pronounced the finished product akin to roast beef – I’d say it’s more fine grained. I love how offal can look so innocuous but surprise you with a certain intensity of flavor or texture. Like their sweetbreads – my first, actually. I’ll post pictures of those later.
I got into an interesting debate with a Facebook commenter. See our exchange:
Lingbo Li Ran into tweep @simonepress who was sitting next to me at @tororestaurant – how cool and random! Had the corn, beef hearts, short rib – yum!
Wed at 11:18am via Unnamed App Custom: loading… · Comment · LikeUnlike · View Feedback (11)Hide Feedback (11)Commenter
My stomach just turned upside down.
Wed at 11:36am ·Lingbo Li
It was sliced very thin and put on a slice of bread – it tasted more like roast beef than anything else.
Wed at 11:39am ·
Commenter
Try endangered sea turtle eggs. Not bad.
Wed at 12:11pm ·Lingbo Li
Beef hearts are not endangered… the ethics are completely different.
Wed at 12:31pm ·
Commenter
Well…..it depends the country ur at where the “When in rome” qoute applies. I still get skeeved from the idea of consuming hearts of animals…i can imagine it was once beating.
Wed at 12:33pm ·Lingbo Li
Thinking something is “gross” is not the same as thinking it is unethical – you can think brussel sprouts are gross, but that’s a personal preference, not a ethical or necessarily cultural one. A piece of beef was once moving as well – it’s muscle, just like the heart is muscle. The ethical argument for eating hearts would be that it’s making use of something that would normally be thrown away, meaning less waste and respecting every part of the animal.
Wed at 1:08pm ·
Commenter
Lemme just think ….what would Hannibal Lector do?
So I’ve gotten comments before on the ethics of what I eat. One person criticized me for eating whale steak (it was from the mink whale, which is not endangered), while some of the stuff I eat is just kind of gross. I mean, I don’t expect everyone to spring for calves brains. I do happen to think that eating offal is one the most ethical and delicious things you can do to reduce waste, but the knee-jerk grossout reaction from some people is saddening.
And if you’re curious who this Ken Oringer is, photographer Andy Ryan took a bunch of photos of the Burger Bash and happened to capture some of me. (I’m not BFFs with Ken! I talked to him for about five minutes. And ragged on his Red Sox chefs whites.)
Photos with celebs are interesting – I always feel like they only exist to simulate a relationship that doesn’t exist, a fleeting fame-by-association.
My gay best friend and I rushed in 20 minutes late to a cake and wine tasting at Troquet, so I missed the cake making demonstration. But hey, I did get to do the important part: eat it all. Twice.
The space is a cozy. It’s narrow, with a line of black lacquered two tops in warmly painted room, perfect date material. And the best part? Over on the counter were over a dozen small plates of chocolate cake kissed with confectioner’s sugar, a duo of raspberries nestled on the corner.
I recounted my horrifying lost iPhone story to Christine Liu, editor of Boston Citysearch, and the host of the shindig.
Me: So I get back to my room. And my roommate says, “Lingbo, your friend D is looking for you, he’s really worried.” So I head over to his room. 5 gay guys open the door saying, “You’re alive! The guy who stole your phone told D that you were at this address in Roxbury.”
Christine: Woah.
Me: So the police officers come up and said they sent squad cars out to Roxbury to look for my body. And had filed affidavits for my cell phone carrier. Then they yelled at me: “Next time you go out, you have to leave contact information!” Later, my roommate hugged me and said she was glad I wasn’t dead.
Oh, and they booty texted all my recent contacts.
True story.
I also met the great Michelle-Kim of Fun and Fearless in Beantown, along with assorted other bloggers and industry folks.
Chocolate and booze? How could it be a bad night?
Exactly.
If only no one had stolen my iPhone.

Beet mousse and parmesean crisp from L'Espalier's $24 3-course lunch, M-F (photo I took spring last year)
“How can Grafton Street be doing Restaurant Week?” one of my friends grumbled last year during the seemingly ultimate restaurant free-for-all.
Indeed. As counterintuitive as it may seem, even a $20.10 three course lunch at swanky L’Espalier is not much of a deal.
When I worked at the Kittle House, people started making their reservations for RW in January. Three months in advance. This seemed like nothing short of madness – realize that you’ll be dining on high volume nights where the kitchen will be slammed and servers will be handling more tables. You’ll also be ordering off an abbreviated menu. Some restaurants only offer two choices for each course during RW – and if you don’t like it, too bad.
The price cut is nominal in many cases – about equivalent to what you’d save by going there for lunch instead of dinner, or skipping the appetizer. Barring check average heavyweights L’Espalier (which only offered a lunch RW, more on that later) and No 9 Park (normally $65 for three courses), you’re really saving in the neighborhood of $7-15 in many cases. Wouldn’t you rather give up a lunchtime burrito or two and get the full experience?
And if you’re not keen on their dessert offering, three courses are superfluous. It might be cheaper and more satisfying to order your favorite entree off the a la carte menu and then head out for ice cream afterwards.
My advice: do your research. If the price cut is significant, the sample menus look right up your alley, and you don’t mind dining on a busy night, RW may be a good deal. But for most people, a little research and planning goes a long way. Most restaurants offer lower prices at lunch anyway, and you won’t competing with the masses for limited spots, or dealing with stressed-out waiters.
It’s not about the calories-per-dollar ratio. Which brings me back to L’Espalier. They actually offer a three course $24 lunch Monday through Friday all the time. It’s $3.90 more, you can go anytime, and you can linger as long as you like. Why deny yourself?
— Credit where credit is due: Post inspired by Ezra Klein’s excellent WaPo column.
“Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly.” – MFK Fisher
One of my friends is a half-Asian stunner who loves food as much as I do. We were sharing some very forgettable Indian tapas and swapping stories about our love lives.
“He’s great, and so sweet,” she said of her boyfriend. “But I know he’s not the One. He doesn’t like to eat.”
She imitated his face when she forced him to try something new. It looked like a beaten puppy. “He’ll at least try it,” she allowed.
Wedding bells were not in their future.
Another foodie friend, along with a requirement that prospective dates should take regular showers, stipulated the following: “[He] can’t blanch at the idea of eating a roasted pig’s head.”
I feel their pain. I once tried to turn a carnivore onto the idea of eating vegetarian pizza. Nothing scary – just a Mexican black bean pizza smothered in cheese, beans, salsa, and guac, on an addictive flatbread crust. I scarfed down a scrumptious Portobello mushroom pizza while a third of his dish remained untouched.
I will never forget what he said next.
“Do you know what would make this better?” he asked. “Meat.”
“You didn’t even finish it,” I said.
“I know,” he said. “I already ate.”
“Why?”
“Because I didn’t think I would like it,” he said.
“Ah,” I replied, aghast.
The thing is, as many of my foodie friends have expressed, it’s not so much the literal crumbs that you’re willing to put in your mouth.* Conduct at the dinner table is all to expressive of conduct elsewhere – and indeed, the self-professed carnivore was equally dogmatic on other matters.
And it’s not just about what you’re willing to eat. It’s also about why you’re there in the first place.
There have been beautiful meals I’ve eaten with soul-shreddingly horrible conversations. I remember one of them – the food was inventive and beautifully presented. The service was flawless; the dining room perfectly balancing elegant and unpretentious.
But dinner conversation consisted of him talking about the money he made and the venture capitalists he tried to impress. “I’ve dated legitimate models,” he mused, then recounted accosting a blonde, South African lovely.
As my spoon broke the surface of the creme brulee, his reaction was to whine that I’d stolen his next move. The food might as well have been sawdust.
Being a food blogger adds another twist in the story. Dining companion’s reactions to my camera is a litmus test of sorts. And those reactions run the gamut, everything from, “I should bring my LSR next time! Here’s my plate. Do you want to photograph the bread basket too?” to sullen tolerance, sabotaging the plating before I finish, and outright sneering.
Maybe it’s petty for me to add a third party to the relationship, but if you can’t love the camera, mealtimes will be very, very awkward.
“Eating is such an intimate act,” one dining companion complained as I did my rounds.
In one shot, he’s caught looking into the camera with an expression somewhere between death and surprise. Possibly closer to death.
My gorgeous friend? When we caught up two months later, she and her boyfriend had broken up.
People are what make the food. But some of us need the right people to eat well.
* Lingbo’s note: I got a comment from a reader about the ethics of using the quote included, without context, “I always order the equivalent of steak and potatoes,” in a column for The Harvard Crimson. I initially thought that I did something wrong and removed the line. But actually, there is nothing unethical about it, and I regret that I edited the post – which was my misstep. Here’s how it appears originally: A guy who says, “I always order the equivalent of steak and potatoes,” no matter what the restaurant is expressing a generalizable facet of his personality.